Tuesday, October 29, 2013

October 25th, 2013

Well, today was an interesting day to say the least.  It began with a well planned out day of finally going to see a Czech soccer game.  The site online said the game should be at noon, so Katie and I headed to the outskirts of Prague for the game.  When we got to where the game should have been it was creepily empty... We eventually wandered until we found a shopping mall where we got wifi only to realize the game was at 7, not noon.  Disappointed we headed back into town and made plans to go to one of the 'must see' sites in Prague, the Vietnamese Market.  We picked up my roommate and headed out.  The ride took almost an hour because of traffic and we have reached the actual edge of Prague.  There was the market and then fields as far as you could see.  Now when you hear that something is a must see in Prague and you see pictures on the internet that looks like this:


You think it will be a place full of cute little family run markets just like this.  Well...it is all a lie.  The Vietnamese Market was not a happy place.  We walked in and it looked like it was abandoned, run down buildings with no one else in sight...it was a little more than off putting.  Eventually we found people who were selling things but it reminded me of the cattle barns at state fair.  It was just giant warehouses packed with overpriced clothing that was only sold in bulk.  The outside looked more like a loading dock than a market and in general it was just not what we expected.  On our way out, after being thoroughly disappointed, we decided to try and at least get some boba tea (a common item to find in Asia) but we really should have stopped while we were ahead.  We are still not sure if there was any tea in whatever we drank.  The tea my friends ordered was powdered and tasted like chemicals, mine was supposed to be a yogurt based drink, but apparently yogurt=slime.  It didn't taste as bad as my friends but I did get a bad headache after drinking it and felt like I had a fever.  Once we had left we were waiting at the bus stop and there is a bunch of people yelling in Czech, so of course we were confused.  Eventually we saw a girl passed out behind the bus stop with no shoes on.  We were just confused and got on the bus and left.  Sadly I did not take any pictures because I was just confused with life at this point.

After our very odd afternoon Katie and I headed off to the soccer game.  This turned out to easily be the best part of our day.  The game was amazingly fun and exactly what you would expect from European soccer.  We got our quality game food of sausage, bread and beer (which tasted like keystone...)  After the game we tried to go home only to realize none of the trams were going the right way.  Only bright side of this, the Czech people were confused too.  After about double the time it should have taken us we finally arrived home after what had easily been my weirdest day in Prague thus far.







October 23rd, 2013

One of my favorite artists and probably the most famous from Prague is David Cerny.  He is known for his political art work and in general controversial art pieces.  He had a gallery opening on the 23rd and my friend Katie and I went to go see it.  It was much less offensive on the surface but I think there was some mocking of political figures still happening.  I was a big fan of all the art and only one piece was really weird.  His big outdoor display was of a naked pregnant woman whose womb you could climb into.  It was very weird but also really cool.  His most famous recent piece has even made it into the US news.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/10/21/czech-sculpture_n_4135547.html

"David Černý (born December 15, 1967) is a Czech sculptor whose works can be seen in many locations in Prague. His works tend to be controversial.  Černý was born in Prague. He gained notoriety in 1991 by painting a Soviet tank pink, to serve as a war memorial in central Prague. As the Monument to Soviet tank crews was still a national cultural monument at that time, his act of civil disobedience was considered "hooliganism" and he was briefly arrested."

"X-Ray"

"X-Ray"

"Purse"

"Violin"

"Purse"

"Cubeby"

"Karel S."

"Wenders"

"Helicop"

"Svankmajer"

"Svankmajer"

"Svankmajer"

"Small Domestic Disaster"



"Jesus Christ"





"In Utero"



October 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th

During the week I've sadly been stuck studying for Czech most of the time but this weekend we finally got to do something fun.  All around Prague this weekend there was Signal festival.  It is a festival of lights, some are interactive, some were video projections and others were something in between.  I got around to seeing all but of the exhibits besides the ones on the outside of town, but it did take three nights.  Some of the displays were better than others but overall it was a great festival and something I have never seen before.










Sunday, October 27, 2013

October 13th, 2013

Today was my first official school trip and we got to go to a medieval Jewish ghetto.  It was a two hour bus ride through the beautiful Czech countryside to Třebíč.  The reason we were going to this specific town is that it is the last standing medieval ghetto in all of Europe.  When the ghetto was still in use it was different from other Jewish ghettos in that most of the Christians in the city came into the ghetto to work.  The Jews had a leather business where a lot of the town was employed, so relations between the Jews and the Christians were very good.  When the Jews were taken during the holocaust, the Christians lost friends which is part of the reason they worked so hard to keep the ghetto the way it was back then.  The ghetto was right where we expected it to be, next to the river and below the church (this is where almost all Jewish ghettos are found).  The ghetto, on the other hand, was not at all what I expected.  There are no longer any Jews living in Třebíč, but the people who live there have kept the ghetto like it was and now have opened a museum.  The ghetto is slightly run down, but this is possibly from the flooding this summer more than anything.  In the houses of the ghetto, young families mostly live there and the outsides of the homes have barely changed.  It was difficult to think of the ghetto as once being a ghetto when there were happy children all over and there was no walls blocking us in.

One thing to that is distinctive of Jewish ghettos is the interesting architecture.  Due to how many people there were living in the ghetto, people needed to be creative when trying to figure out how to make more space.  It was very common to build out the second story of a house over the street.  This would leave room for carts and people to move while giving the people in the house more space to live.  Sometimes entire walkways would be covered leaving only a tunnel.

"The Jewish Quarter of Třebíč placed in Moravian town Třebíč in the Czech Republic is one of the best preserved Jewish ghettos in Europe. Therefore it was listed in 2003 (together with the Jewish Cemetery and the St. Procopius Basilica in Třebíč) in the UNESCO World Heritage List and it is the only Jewish monument outside Israel specifically placed on the List."

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

(Třebíč, Jewish Ghetto)

Once we finished our tour of the streets of Třebíč, we went to the Rear Synagogue.  The synagogue is no longer used for services but has been turned into a museum and gallery for local art work.  Perhaps the most impressive piece in the entire exhibition was a model of all of the Jewish ghetto done by a local artist.  It is an exact replica of what the ghetto would have looked like during the times of the Jews and was made entirely out of wood.  Attached to the church is a home that was set up to look like it would have looked during Medieval times, with a little shop down below.

"The synagogue, also known as "New" (Neuschul), dates from 1669. After 1837, a new part of women's gallery was added to its northern part (according to Jewish religious traditions men and women were not allowed to share the same space in the sanctuary). Since 1925, the synagogue has not been used any more for religious purposes and was converted into a storehouse. Due to lack of maintenance the structure fell into disrepair in the 1980s. The complex and expensive full renovation was completed in 1997 and the synagogue was reopened in that year."

(Rear Synagogue)

(Rear Synagogue)

(Rear Synagogue)

(Rear Synagogue)

(Rear Synagogue)

(Rear Synagogue)

(Rear Synagogue)

(Rear Synagogue)

After the tour of the synagogue we headed off to this older ladies house who lives in one of the old homes of the ghetto.  She told us about her home and how it was owned by a wealthy person because it had a private well and tall ceilings.  She then let us look around her pottery studio where she sells souvenirs to tourists.  Once we were done at her house we went to have a wonderful meal of chicken schnitzel and potatoes with honey cake for dessert.  After lunch we got on the bus and headed up the hill to the Jewish cemetery.  The cemetery was originally close to the town but the king didn't like that he could see it so the Jews were forced to move it to the back side of the hill.  The cemetery was like no other I have seen before.  Besides the fact that there were hundreds of graves piled down the hillside, you could see the obvious effect of the holocaust.  On many of the crypts there was space for a whole family to be buried there but only one or two names were there because the rest of the family had been killed during the holocaust.  Also beside many of the crypts were separate pieces of stone where the names of family members who had died during the holocaust were listed.  Another thing that was different was that there was a time when many of the graves were written in German because that was the common language.  After the holocaust some families went to their ancestors graves and chiseled the German off of the grave stone.

"It was apparently founded at the beginning of the 17th century and expanded by a new part in 1888. According to tradition, approx. 3000 tombstones are found on the burial ground (the oldest dates back to 1625), including valuable Baroque and Classical type stones. Next to the cast-iron gate is the ceremonial hall from 1903 with a fully preserved exterior and interior."

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)

(Třebíč, Jewish Cemetery)